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Polaris Ranger Straight Axle Lift Kit




Polaris Ranger Straight Axle Lift Kit Price:
Manufacturer: Xtreme

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Polaris Ranger Straight Axle Lift Kit


Fits XTREME RANGER W/STRAIGHT AXLE

Polaris Straight Axle Ranger lift Kit is loaded with features. The front lift uses CNC machined aluminum spacers that are designed to prevent coil misalignment and shifting. This prevents the coils from rubbing or binding on the struts. The system comes with a “strut spacer” to make installation simple. This spacer has a very important purpose and that is to make sure you have both struts set at the proper height in the knuckle. Failure to get the struts set properly will cause the bike to handle erratic or an axle to over extend.
The rear is lifted using brackets that relocate the top of the shocks. Relocating the attachment points to allow for more lift and some geometry change using technology incorporated on other lifts by Xteme. Sway bar extension links putting the sway bar back in proper position complete the kit.

Kit No. XTPSRA

Polaris Ranger with

Solid Axle Rear suspension

 

 

Read these instructions carefully. Xtreme recommends, a professional mechanic perform the installation. Care should be taken to follow all standard safety procedures.

 

A thorough inspection of the suspension should be made prior to performing the installation. Any worn, bent or broken parts should be replaced. After installation another inspection should be made, checking for loose components or missing hardware. Inspect, again after eight hours of operation.

 

To begin, check to make sure all components and necessary tools are on hand.

 

Caution!! Do to the changes Polaris made in their bikes. It is possible that you will need to remove some material on the strut housing. This will prevent the strut housing from rubbing the out-board CV boot. Check the attached drawing to see where to remove the material and which boot configuration to look for.

 

Components:

The kit consists of a set of spacers (Aluminum) and two PVC spacers for the front. New brackets are furnished for the rear.

 

Disassembly / Installation Procedure

 

1.)Begin by loosening the lug nuts on both front tires. Raise the unit, using a suitable

lifting device or procedure, until the front tires are off the ground. If using a floor jack

with stands, chock the rear wheels to prevent the unit from rolling. If using jack

stands, make sure the stands are placed under the frame and not the body. Make sure

the unit is stable and secure.

 

2.)Remove the tires / wheels.

NOTE: Now is a good time to check the threads on the lug studs. Check for rust, pulled threads or other deterioration that could cause a stud/thread failure.

 

3.)Remove the brake caliper and tie it up out of the way. Do not let it hang on the hose.

 

4.)Loosen the top pinch bolt on the strut. This bolt also attaches the brake hose.

 

5.)Remove the tie rod attaching bolt paying close attention as to the location of the

washer/spacer used.

 

6.)Loosen the bottom ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint and control arm, we

recommend using a heavy weight (something larger than the hammer you are striking

with) as a backup on the opposite side of the control arm you are striking.

 

When you strike the control arm where the ball joint is located you want to make a pinching blow so as to cause the ball joint to separate from the control arm. Using a “pickle fork” may cause damage to your ball joint boot causing you to have to purchase another boot.

 

7.)Remove the axle retaining nut and tap the end of the axle stub to loosen it in the

housing. Remove the ball joint nut and drop the control arm. Slide the axle stub out

of the hub being careful not to damage the seal. Wrap a cloth around the stub to

prevent contamination and carefully tie it up out of the way.

 

NOTE: PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE INNER PLUNGE SOCKET AND DO NOT DISENGAGE. IF YOU DO, CAREFULLY WORK THE BEARINGS BACK INTO THE SOCKET. FAILURE TO DO THIS WILL CAUSE YOU TO DISASSEMBLE THE UNIT BACK TO THIS POINT AND START OVER. IN WORST CASES YOU CAN DAMAGE THE SOCKET AND HAVE TO REPLACE THE AXLE.

 

9.)Loosen the lower pinch bolt and slide the strut housing down and off the strut. When

you have the housing free place this on a table or in a vise and begin to remove the

material necessary to prevent contact with the boot. Insert the steel sleeve and make

sure this will not contact the boot also. (The sleeve is already cut to aid the process.)

When you have removed the material necessary place the aluminum spacer over the

shock and insert the shock back into the housing. Lower the shock in the housing until

it seats firmly on the spacer and the coil is sitting in the retainer groove. Tighten the

lower pinch bolt.

 

10.)Take the stub and reinsert into the hub. Do not try to insert it all the way. Take the

lower control arm and lift it up and reinstall the ball joint into the control arm.

Tighten the ball joint nut finger tight. Place a jack under the control arm to help hold

it in place.

 

11.)You may now insert the stub into the hub and through the bearings. Be sure the inner

plunge socket is engaged properly.

 

12.)Complete the reassembly in the reverse order that you used to disassemble. When

you install the axle retaining nut, tighten this firmly making sure the bearings are

seated and the axle stub is all the way into the hub. Look at the back of the hub and

be sure the stub is all the way in.

 

13.)Make sure the coil and spacer are seated properly then using the jack you placed

under the control arm apply pressure to the control arm, reattach all the components

you removed in the reverse order. Make sure the strut is down in the housing and

firmly against the steel sleeve. You may check this by inserting your finger through

the bottom and checking to be sure it is tight. If not you may use a pry bar inserted in

the coil to pry down on the strut until it is in position. Tighten and replace all “cotter

pins” you removed.

 

15.)Proceed to the other side and repeat the steps listed.

Front diagrams

 

Knuckle comparison

On the left is a stock knuckle marked for removal and on the right is one with the material removed. Removing this material will not affect the integrity of the knuckle.

Coil Spacer Installed

This shows the coil spacer in place notice the steel washer under the spacer. This should be installed to support the spacer.

Strut Placement

This shows how to push the strut down on the spacer. You may have to apply pressure to the strut on some installations. When you have the strut seated on the spacer tighten the lower pinch bolt.

 

16) Now continue reinstalling the tie rod, brake caliper, top pinch bolt and brake hose clamp and finally the axle nut. Tighten everything up and install the cotter pins, wheels/tires.

REAR 17) Lift the rear of the bike and place jack stands to support the weight and stabilize the bike. Remove the wheels and the rear shocks.

18) Start by installing the retainer across the top of the crossmember. Shown in picture below.

19) Be sure when installing all the other parts you get the sleeve installed properly. The next photo is taken from the bottom.

20) Next install all the other parts as shown in the next photo.

 

21) After installing the parts be sure to install the top of the shock in the new position and then tighten all the bolts and nuts to ensure a good fit.

10.) A good “Anti-Seize” compound should be applied to the lug studs and the tire/wheel combination of choice installed. Remove all jacks, jack stands and other devices used to lift and hold the bike. Check all brackets and bolts to be sure everything is tight.