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Polaris Sportsman 700/800 Lift Kit
Polaris Sportsman 700/800 Lift KitFits Polaris Sportsman 700/800 2004 to current. Sportsman 600, 700, and 800 Lift Kit 3 inch lift uses the CNC machine spacer kit on the front suspension, but utilize precision brackets to lift the rear eliminating the need to change out the coil springs. This quick and easy installation greatly increases ride height and quality as well as increasing the payload capacity. Kit No. XTP8103 INCH04- up Polaris Sportsman
Read these instructions carefully. Xtreme recommends, a professional mechanic perform the installation. Care should be taken to follow all standard safety procedures.
A thorough inspection of the suspension should be made prior to performing the installation. Any worn, bent or broken parts should be replaced. After installation another inspection should be made, checking for loose components or missing hardware. Inspect, again after eight hours of operation.
To begin, check to make sure all components and necessary tools are on hand.
Caution!! Do to the changes Polaris made in their bikes. It is possible that you will need to remove some material on the strut housing. This will prevent the strut housing from rubbing the out-board CV boot. Check the attached drawing to see where to remove the material and which boot configuration to look for.
Components: The kit consists of a set of spacers (Aluminum) and two PVC spacers for the front. New brackets are furnished for the rear.
Disassembly / Installation Procedure
1.)Begin by loosening the lug nuts on both front tires. Raise the unit, using a suitable lifting device or procedure, until the front tires are off the ground. If using a floor jack with stands, chock the rear wheels to prevent the unit from rolling. If using jack stands, make sure the stands are placed under the frame and not the body. Make sure the unit is stable and secure.
2.)Remove the tires / wheels. NOTE: Now is a good time to check the threads on the lug studs. Check for rust, pulled threads or other deterioration that could cause a stud/thread failure.
3.)Remove the brake caliper and tie it up out of the way. Do not let it hang on the hose.
4.)Loosen the top pinch bolt on the strut. This bolt also attaches the brake hose.
5.)Remove the tie rod attaching bolt paying close attention as to the location of the washer/spacer used.
6.)Loosen the bottom ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint and control arm, we recommend using a heavy weight (something larger than the hammer you are striking with) as a backup on the opposite side of the control arm you are striking.
When you strike the control arm where the ball joint is located you want to make a pinching blow so as to cause the ball joint to separate from the control arm. Using a “pickle fork” may cause damage to your ball joint boot causing you to have to purchase another boot.
7.)Remove the axle retaining nut and tap the end of the axle stub to loosen it in the housing. Remove the ball joint nut and drop the control arm. Slide the axle stub out of the hub being careful not to damage the seal. Wrap a cloth around the stub to prevent contamination and carefully tie it up out of the way.
NOTE: PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE INNER PLUNGE SOCKET AND DO NOT DISENGAGE. IF YOU DO, CAREFULLY WORK THE BEARINGS BACK INTO THE SOCKET. FAILURE TO DO THIS WILL CAUSE YOU TO DISASSEMBLE THE UNIT BACK TO THIS POINT AND START OVER. IN WORST CASES YOU CAN DAMAGE THE SOCKET AND HAVE TO REPLACE THE AXLE.
9.)Loosen the lower pinch bolt and slide the strut housing down and off the strut. When you have the housing free place this on a table or in a vise and begin to remove the material necessary to prevent contact with the boot. Insert the steel sleeve and make sure this will not contact the boot also. (The sleeve is already cut to aid the process.) When you have removed the material necessary place the aluminum spacer over the shock and insert the shock back into the housing. Lower the shock in the housing until it seats firmly on the spacer and the coil is sitting in the retainer groove. Tighten the lower pinch bolt.
10.)Take the stub and reinsert into the hub. Do not try to insert it all the way. Take the lower control arm and lift it up and reinstall the ball joint into the control arm. Tighten the ball joint nut finger tight. Place a jack under the control arm to help hold it in place.
11.)You may now insert the stub into the hub and through the bearings. Be sure the inner plunge socket is engaged properly.
12.)Complete the reassembly in the reverse order that you used to disassemble. When you install the axle retaining nut, tighten this firmly making sure the bearings are seated and the axle stub is all the way into the hub. Look at the back of the hub and be sure the stub is all the way in.
13.)Make sure the coil and spacer are seated properly then using the jack you placed under the control arm apply pressure to the control arm, reattach all the components you removed in the reverse order. Make sure the strut is down in the housing and firmly against the steel sleeve. You may check this by inserting your finger through the bottom and checking to be sure it is tight. If not you may use a pry bar inserted in the coil to pry down on the strut until it is in position. Tighten and replace all “cotter pins” you removed.
15.)Proceed to the other side and repeat the steps listed.
On the left is a stock knuckle marked for removal and on the right is one with the material removed. Removing this material will not affect the integrity of the knuckle.
This shows the coil spacer in place notice the steel washer under the spacer. This should be installed to support the spacer.
This shows how to push the strut down on the spacer. You may have to apply pressure to the strut on some installations. When you have the strut seated on the spacer tighten the lower pinch bolt. REAR Disassembly / Reassembly
1.) Begin by loosening the lug nuts on both rear tires. Raise the unit, using a suitable lifting device or procedure, until the rear tires are off the ground. If using a floor jack with stands, chock the front wheels to prevent the unit from rolling. If using jack stands, make sure the stands are placed under the frame and not the body. Make sure the unit is stable and secure.
2.)Starting with the left rear, remove the shock lower attaching bolt. Remove the top bolt from the sway bar link. (The aluminum hex shaft is the link.)
3.)You may want to remove the plastic CV boot guard to give you more room. Attach the XTP800-01 bracket to the lower control arm using the square u-bolt supplied. Install a 3/8x2 ½” bolt through the lower hole in the –01, then through the factory bracket, through the sleeve supplied and out the factory mount.
4.)Using another 3/8x2 ½” bolt insert the bolt through the top hole in the –01 bracket and install a flat washer on the bolt. Hold the shock in position and insert the bolt through the shock. Install another flat washer on the top bolt and install the XTP800- 03 placing the small end at the bottom. Now install the 3/8” nyloc nuts and tighten.
5.)Proceed to the right side and repeat the process using the XTP800-02 bracket for the right side.
6.)With sway bar still disconnected remove both arms attached to the sway bar. Flip them over and reattach them to the sway bar. With the ends in the flipped position you may now reattach the rubber grommets and install the attaching bolts to the link. Make sure you have both ends started prior to tightening the bolts. Make sure the rubber bushings fit the sway bar arms as intended.
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