Kit No. XTP750

Polaris Ranger

Front Leveling Kit

 

 

Read these instructions carefully. Xtreme recommends, a professional mechanic perform the installation. Care should be taken to follow all standard safety procedures.

 

A thorough inspection of the suspension should be made prior to performing the installation. Any worn, bent or broken parts should be replaced. After installation another inspection should be made, checking for loose components or missing hardware. Inspect, again after eight hours of operation.

 

To begin, check to make sure all components and necessary tools are on hand.

 

Caution!! Do to the changes Polaris made in their bikes. It is possible that you will need to remove some material on the strut housing. This will prevent the strut housing from rubbing the out-board CV boot. Check the attached drawing to see where to remove the material and which boot configuration to look for.

 

Disassembly / Installation Procedure

 

1.)Begin by loosening the lug nuts on both front tires. Raise the unit, using a suitable

lifting device or procedure, until the front tires are off the ground. If using a floor jack

with stands, chock the rear wheels to prevent the unit from rolling. If using jack

stands, make sure the stands are placed under the frame and not the body. Make sure

the unit is stable and secure.

 

2.)Remove the tires / wheels.

 

NOTE: Now is a good time to check the threads on the lug studs. Check for rust, pulled threads or other deterioration that could cause a stud/thread failure.

 

3.)Remove the brake caliper and tie it up out of the way. Do not let it hang on the hose.

 

4.)Loosen the top pinch bolt on the strut. This bolt also attaches the brake hose.

 

5.)Remove the tie rod attaching bolt paying close attention as to the location of the

washer/spacer used.

 

6.)Loosen the bottom ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint and control arm, we

recommend using a heavy weight (something larger than the hammer you are striking

with) as a backup on the opposite side of the control arm you are striking.

 

When you strike the control arm where the ball joint is located you want to make a pinching blow so as to cause the ball joint to separate from the control arm. Using a “pickle fork” may cause damage to your ball joint boot causing you to have to purchase another boot.

 

7.)Remove the axle retaining nut and tap the end of the axle stub to loosen it in the

housing. Remove the ball joint nut and drop the control arm. Slide the axle stub out

of the hub being careful not to damage the seal. Wrap a cloth around the stub to

prevent contamination and carefully tie it up out of the way.

 

NOTE: PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE INNER PLUNGE SOCKET AND DO NOT DISENGAGE. IF YOU DO, CAREFULLY WORK THE BEARINGS BACK INTO THE SOCKET. FAILURE TO DO THIS WILL CAUSE YOU TO DISASSEMBLE THE UNIT BACK TO THIS POINT AND START OVER. IN WORST CASES YOU CAN DAMAGE THE SOCKET AND HAVE TO REPLACE THE AXLE.

 

9.)Loosen the lower pinch bolt and slide the strut housing down and off the strut. When

you have the housing free place this on a table or in a vise and begin to remove the

material necessary to prevent contact with the boot. Insert the steel sleeve and make

sure this will not contact the boot also. (The sleeve is already cut to aid the process.)

When you have removed the material necessary place the aluminum spacer over the

shock and insert the shock back into the housing. Lower the shock in the housing until

it seats firmly on the spacer and the coil is sitting in the retainer groove. Tighten the

lower pinch bolt.

 

10.)Take the stub and reinsert into the hub. Do not try to insert it all the way. Take the

lower control arm and lift it up and reinstall the ball joint into the control arm.

Tighten the ball joint nut finger tight. Place a jack under the control arm to help hold

it in place.

 

11.)You may now insert the stub into the hub and through the bearings. Be sure the inner

plunge socket is engaged properly.

 

12.)Complete the reassembly in the reverse order that you used to disassemble. When

you install the axle retaining nut, tighten this firmly making sure the bearings are

seated and the axle stub is all the way into the hub. Look at the back of the hub and

be sure the stub is all the way in.

 

13.)Make sure the coil and spacer are seated properly then using the jack you placed

under the control arm apply pressure to the control arm, reattach all the components

you removed in the reverse order. Make sure the strut is down in the housing and

firmly against the pvc sleeve. You may check this by inserting your finger through

the bottom and checking to be sure it is tight. If not you may use a pry bar inserted in

the coil to pry down on the strut until it is in position. Tighten and replace all “cotter

pins” you removed.

 

15.)Proceed to the other side and repeat the steps listed.

 

 

 

 

On the left is a stock knuckle marked for removal and on the right is one with the material removed. Removing this material will not affect the integrity of the knuckle.

This shows the coil spacer in place notice the steel washer under the spacer. This should be installed to support the spacer.

This shows how to push the strut down on the spacer. You may have to apply pressure to the strut on some installations. When you have the strut seated on the spacer tighten the lower pinch bolt.

A good “Anti-Seize” compound should be applied to the lug studs and the tire/wheel

combination of choice installed. Remove all jacks, jack stands and other devices used

to lift and hold the bike. Check all brackets and bolts to be sure everything is tight.